Charles Crohare has owned Olivina since 1950 when it was a cattle ranch with a nice grove of olive trees from 1881. In 2001 he and his son, Carl, planted more trees and converted the operation to an olive orchard of 11,000 trees which produce seven kinds of olive oil, and more on the way. Charles and Carl were joined by Charles's grandson (Carl's nephew) Dan several years ago and they all participate in the daily operations of the ranch.
Varietals, They're Not Just For Grapes Anymore:
Olivina presses a signature blend of extra virgin olive oil, as most olive oil producers do. It also produces six varietal oils--extra virgin cold-press olive oils that contain oil from just one kind of olive. From light-bodied to full-bodied the line includes:
- Picholine (French varietal)
- Arbequina (Spanish varietal)
- Lucca (Italian varietal)
- Frantoio (Italian varietal)
- Mission
- Century Mission (from 100-plus year-old trees on the ranch)
Tasting the Bitter:
Fresh olive oil, or olio nuevo, has a much stronger, bitter flavor than oil that has been in the bottle even several months. Those bitter elements, which can be experienced even as a sort of heat or spice, are much of what defines the differences between the varietals.
"I don't know why," says Charles, "but women really like the Picholine. To me, it's too bitter. But people seem to love it."
On-Site Pressing:
Part of how the flavors stay so distinct between the different oils is that Olivina has an on-site press. Olives are pressed with hours--sometimes minutes--of being hand-picked.
"Olives are fruit," explains Dan, "they start changing the minute you pick them. Hauling them to a press, waiting your turn in line, we found it all effected the results and we couldn't control them."
Olivina also leaves their oils unfiltered to add even more flavor components.
Varietal Challenge:
A tasting room and orchard tours are planned for 2008. Check out details or order oils to taste at The Olivina.
