The New American Olive Oil by Fran Gage

A stunning book chock full of simple, modern recipes and everything you ever wanted to know about olive oil but were afraid to ask.

I thought I was all done with single ingredient cookbooks. After all, who really needs over a 100 recipes for apples? Plus, it seemed like every ingredient had already had its book. Fran Gage's The New American Olive Oil, however, shows that there is more to say on that subject. Fast on the heels of the local foods movement, Gage makes a case for the high quality and diverse nature of olive oils being coaxed out of old mission orchards and newly planted groves by olive lovers in the U.S. Anyone who thinks the only olive oils worth attention are from Italy, Spain, France, or Greece will be forced to think again when they read her tome.

Wonderfully simple recipes populate most of the book. Classic olive oil-centric dishes like pesto and salt cod pil-pil are joined by fresh dishes like a dessert of chocolate ganache made with olive oil and served on crusty bread before being drizzled with more olive oil and anchovy crudo with lemon olive oil.

Smartly, Gage specifies whether a recipe benefits from mild, medium, or robust olive oil, but, with the exception of a few recipes that use flavored oil, recognizes even that many oils are a stretch for most people to keep around the kitchen. She understands, in short, that you may have only one bottle at hand.

Profiles of olive growers are sprinkled throughout the book. Unfortunately, Gage's clear affection for the growers and their project of creating high-quality artisanal olive oils can give the profiles a slight salesman or advertorial feel. That affection, however, is well earned and has no bearing on the fabulous recipes and solid, well researched background on olives, their oil, and how to make the most of it that form the bulk of the book.

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